Stylish dining that won't break the bank
Sometimes you feel like a splurge, and sometimes you don’t. But even when you’re feeling more like Scrooge than a big spender, you still don’t want to settle for crapola for dinner. It just means you have to think a little more creatively about where and how to eat. So here’s something for local newcomers to consider: true, Boston has plenty of worldclass, big-ticket eateries, but it also has more than its share of places to eat where the bill for two can be under $40, excluding the bar tab.
Of course, ethnic restaurants are dependably cheap eats. Good food, fast service, fair prices. But as terrific as the cuisine can be, sometimes the atmosphere at the nearest Indian, Chinese, Thai, or Mexican joint leaves you feeling a little less than festive. If dinner out was only about spending as little as possible, where would the joy be? Think of this as a little cheat sheet on where to eat when you don’t want to sacrifice style just because you’re a little short on change.
We’ve already established that atmosphere matters. Timing matters too. Sundays are value nights at many local bistros, with three-course prix fixe menus that hover between $20 and $25. And, at the risk of encouraging major scarfing of the cheese-and-cracker spread during the early-bird special, some of the best deals in town are at happy hour. (On the other hand, if you eat enough at happy hour, who cares what happens later in the night?)
One of the best little secrets in town is the “Bar Bites” menu at Morton’s. Their mini burgers must rank among the top guilty pleasures in the city. On a late-summer evening, settle into one of the patio tables at Morton’s Seaport location and wait for sunset. Another spot with a big city feel is Douzo. The afterwork scene is chic, and if you order carefully, you can get some great sushi without spending a small fortune. (Yes, the prices are a little higher than at some of the city’s more down-and-dirty sushi joints, but this piece is about eating out in style, not in the semishadows.) Over on Newbury Street, is Sonsie; it’s hard to find a more spilling-out-the-doors mingling spot, and, with little effort, a couple of starters at the bar become an entrée that can fit nearly every budget.
In the South End, there’s much honey for little money at the Beehive, from poutine — the great Canadian contribution to junk food, oozing gravy and cheese curds over French fries — to the massive rawbar platter for two, which at $38 bucks could be one of the best cheap seafood meals in town. Just next door is Sibling Rivalry, where the brothers Kinkead have a weekly Sunday battle, pitting one sibling’s gourmet burgers against the other’s. Also nearby is Masa, where a steady stream of $1 bar bites helps mellow out the bite of the Patrón. Pops works for me too, especially when a sandwich at the bar is all I want for dinner. If you want the full, cozy booth experience, few items on Pops’ comfort food menu top $20.
A little farther away is Petit Robert Bistro, which offers true perfection — a meal that is refined, rationally priced, and regally served. If there’s an iconic “impress your date but don’t spend a bundle” destination, either the South End or Kenmore Square Petit Robert would suit. Feeling social and only a little cash-starved? Try Tremont 647, especially on a warm night when the entire South End seems to be camped on its sidewalk. Another South End hit with stylish Gallic-themed cheap eats is Gaslight on Harrison. Come for the steak frites, stay for the entire menu. Rocca is elegant and professional, the food is outstanding, and if you order the pasta or risotto, you’ll leave feeling full.
At Persephone on Summer Street, Michael Leviton has done a terrific job of coming up with small plates that can flatten a big hunger and still scratch the sustainable-dining itch. And don’t neglect Ian Just’s two hits a short skip away. Both Les Zygomates and its sultry Italian sister, Sorriso, will net fine meals with happily reasonable tabs most nights.
As for neighborhood options, dBar in Dorchester is masterful: great food and nary an entrée topping 20 smackers. Also in Dorchester, at the now venerable Ashmont Grill and the new pizza and pasta restaurant, Tavolo, chef/owner Chris Douglass turns the basics into high art. Hungry Mother in Kendall Square is still reservations-required unless waiting in long queues is your thing. And don’t forget the Blue Room or B-Side Lounge if you’re in the MIT area. The Blue Room serves up lusty big plates of high flavor, and the B-Side is your latenight heaven for crazygood comfort food.
So dine out in Boston and beyond, order wisely, eat in style, and pay a pittance for the best that Beantown has to offer. Welcome back!
Louisa Kasdon can be reached at food@stuffatnight.com.
