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Feeding Frenzy, October 7, 2008

by Louisa Kasdon | October 03, 2008

Good news for public market fans. The Massachusetts Legislature has approved $10 million for a Boston Public Market that will be a hub for locally produced foods from across the region. Governor Deval Patrick, a major foodie himself, signed the bill, which allocates money to plan and build the market. In a simultaneous and supporting development, the Boston Redevelopment Authority funded a companion initiative to locate the market in Boston. My personal thanks to all those private citizens, members of the Massachusetts Farm Bureau, and legislators who worked long and hard so Boston will have a year-round indoor farmers’ market.

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Third Time's a Charm

by Louisa Kasdon | October 03, 2008

After years of searching for just the right space, Chuck Draghi returns with Erbaluce

Chuck Draghi gets an A for perseverance. Twice he’s come this close to opening a restaurant of his own, only to have the deal fall apart at the eleventh hour. But this time, it’s really happening. This month, chef Draghi and his partner, Joan Johnson, will open Erbaluce, an enoteca and modern Italian restaurant tucked away in Bay Village in the former home of Dedo. It’s a small mom-and-pop restaurant that Draghi intends to be a “little urban oasis, where the chef is behind the stove every night, proving himself and his food.” Draghi says Erbaluce will be “evocative of the Northern Italian region of Piedmont, where the sun comes up every morning, shears off the morning mist, perfumes the air with lavender and sage, and then turns the fields green against a sky of electric blue.” (In addition to being a chef, Draghi is also a playwright.) ...

Sea Change: Indian cuisine goes Coastal in Brookline

by Louisa Kasdon | September 22, 2008

Indian cuisine goes Coastal in Brookline

When I finally sat down with a map, I didn’t know why I’d been surprised when restaurant entrepreneur Vik Kapoor of Harvard Square’s Tamarind Bay first floated the notion of a new venture specializing in Indian seafood. But it had seemed so odd to me at first. My mind was so firmly attached to a meat-and veggie-based Indian cuisine of goshts and murghs, and my idea of seafood so focused on things from Maine grilled with lemon and butter, that it didn’t compute. What would Kapoor serve, other than really good shrimp curry?

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Spanish lessons

by Louisa Kasdon | July 25, 2008
Spain comes to Boston — and it’s not your father’s Latin food The South End keeps getting more interesting. Now there’s a corner of Harrison Avenue where Spanish is spoken with a Castilian lisp. The accent isn’t Cuban, Ecuadorian, Peruvian, or even Mexican...

Up in smoke

by Louisa Kasdon | July 11, 2008
Demystifying barbecue, one rib at a time According to Redbones pit master Jose Perez, I’ve never been to a barbecue. All those backyard and rooftop parties, with steaks and hot dogs, grilled corn and watermelons, were nada. “Glorified cookouts,” Perez...

Fashion plates

by Louisa Kasdon | May 30, 2008
It’s not just ingredients that make a dish trendy “Great chefs love fashion,” says Boston Public’s Pino Maffeo. “And great food, like great fashion, goes through time warps where something that was perfect a year or two ago is totally unstylish today...