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Feeding Frenzy, 12/16/08

Feeding Frenzy, 12/16/08


The 15th Annual Oldways Conference on the Mediterranean Diet was notable for several things, among them the report given by the eminent Boston scientist and professor Curtis Ellison of Boston University School of Medicine. (Ellison first coined the phrase “The French Paradox,” shorthand for why the French can gleefully eat and drink all the things we know are full-fat and therefore unhealthy — foie gras, runny cheeses, gallons of red wine — and still be leaner and sexier than we are.) The first fascinating tidbit is that sobriety is actually bad for you. Ellison’s recent research shows that those who don’t drink on a daily basis — be it wine, vodka, or beer — actually have a higher risk of heart disease than those who imbibe regularly, at the rate of several drinks a day. The French, for example, get pickled daily, and it seems this keeps their blood alcohol at an almost constant rate. Good news for you if you like to drink and worry about your health. The scientific explanation was lost on me, but here’s what I retained: drinking just enough alcohol to stay perpetually mildly drunk —  at least two glasses of wine, etc., daily — combats the negative consequences of high amounts of animal fat in your diet and keeps your arteries free and clear. Binge drinking doesn’t benefit you at all; it’s the daily dose that works. But a word of caution: the cardiac protection tapers off at five drinks a day. More than that and you’re in worse shape than those who never drink at all. Ellison calls for “intelligent drinking” to save your heart.

Forget geese and turkey; upcoming for Christmas is the Feast of the Seven Fishes. Many Italian and seafood restaurants serve this traditional Italian Christmas Eve meal. This year, Neptune Oyster and Sage (on December 17) are two of the local venues offering the feast. Check in with your other favorites.

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A food writer’s favorite culinary indulgences

If ever there was a time of year to be a little indulgent, it’s December. After all, isn’t it payback for having to slog through 31 short, dark, chilly days? In that spirit, I’ve put together my personal top 10 of micro, mini, and maxi indulgences for the month. The key to making the most out of these small pleasures is conscious ceremony. You don’t just eat the great, juicy cheeseburger on the run, or slice off cold chunks of artisanal cheese before it comes to room temperature runny-ness. You construct the ambience carefully, hold the bite in your mouth, marvel over it, rhapsodically describe it, and thus transform a small moment of sensual pleasure into a big helping of self-love.

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